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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.